Zellige -- a signature Moroccan art form -- consists of terra cotta pottery fragments cemented together and covered with layers of enamel. The result is a beautiful geometric pattern that many Moroccans install on their floors, pools, and walls.
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Making amphorae, when they fire they pots, they use pressed olives for fuel and it smells like burning olive oil.
Fès contains a wealth of traditional Moroccan cultural practice, including the art of throwing pottery.
A view of the Old City of Fès , Morocco
Morocco is, by nature, a bilingual country. Its official language is Arabic, but many also speak French.
Detail of the golden doors of Dar el Makhzen, Royal Palace in Fes, Morocco
Professors Ludwig and Welch in front of the Royal Palace in Fez
In a perfect juxtapostion of the traditional and the modern, a Moroccan sheepherder tries to guide his livestock off of the asphalt.
Located in the southern end of Volubilis, the House of Orpheus is named for its large floor mosaic, which features Orpheus in the center, playing to a chorus of surrounding nature.
The House of the Athlete, named for the mosaic, is one of many preserved domestic spaces in Volubilis. The image of a man riding a donkey back to front may represent Silenus, companion to Dionysus.
These two figures appear to be what remains of Hercules - depicted with the classic lionskin draped over both shoulders and laurel crown of heroes - and Cupid. The mosaic is clearly undergoing resotration, as all of the body of Cupid is missing.
Mosaic at the Baths of Gallienus in Volubilis
Most mosaic patterns in the Roman Empire contained figures as well as geometric patterns, sometimes in combination. This geometic pattern, however, is less uniform than some of the ones closer to the City of Rome itself.
Depicting three labors of Hercules, this mosaic from the Baths of Gallienus shows the true extent of the Roman Empire. The three labors of Hercules's on this mosaic are the slaying of the Nemean lion, the Erymanthian Boar and the Stymphalian Birds. The fourth panel appears to be either a corner of a room or a reconstruction.
Multi-person public toilet, former Roman city (Volubilis)
The Romans maintained high water quality standards in their cities, in large part through effective waste management. They also were more than willing to use their 'time on the john' not just for elimination but also for discussion with others, if appropriate.
Although the city of Volubilis is now nothing but ruins, it was an important administrative, military and trading center during Roman administration of northern Morocco. Homes of the better off had mosaic floors, usually depicting mythological figures, flora or fauna.
Main street, Roman settlement of Volubilis
To emphasize imperial majesty, Roman architecture stressed the monumental. The arches in the distance formed the backdrop for the film 'Patton.' General Patton himself was known as a student of history, always examining classic battles to understand the art of war better. The film shows him riding up the cobblestones, musing about the importance of what can be learned from history. Morocco has also become a major international center for movie-making, with its spectacular mountain and desert scenery, relatively stable and supportive government, and low production costs.
Grand entry and portal, Volubilis, Morocco
Immortalized in the film 'Patton,' this set of magnificent arches stands in north-central Morocco, on the edge of the Atlas mountains. At its height, the Roman empire ruled all around the Mediterranean, which they called 'Mare Nostrum' -- 'our sea.' Evidence of Roman settlement can be found in many parts of North Africa, with some of the finest mosaics in Tunisia and Libya.
As can be seen in the threatening gesture of the man at the right, having a busload of tourists suddenly stop and start taking pictures without permission while he and his colleagues were laboring hard. A few minutes of mutual exchanges of good will, facilitated by the tour guide and some of the Americans' helping to knock down branches, changed attitudes from suspicious to welcoming -- typical of what can be done through direct person-to-person interaction.
Basket of newly harvested olives, Morocco
Many steps remain to be taken before these olives will be consumed. Some are pressed for their valuable oil. Others are saved for use as a basic food, rich in [relatively] healthy types of oil. Note the labor-intensive nature of this work. More developed Mediterranean countries utilize mechanization. 40% of Morocco's population work in agriculture, although it contributes less than 15% of the gross domestic product. Overpopulation is one of the country's major problems -- and Morocco is from the only southern Mediterranean country with this problem.
Women picking olives, north central Morocco
As noted for the previous slide, different parts of harvesting olives are handled by women rather than men. The women toss the olives into baskets [see later slide].
Olive trees dot much of the Mediterranean littoral and sufficiently watered areas inland. Because it does not require much moisture and yields a very high value crop, olive cultivation provides one of the major bases of national economies. Men beat the trees with long sticks or break the branches to knock down the ripe olives. The women then separate the olives from other parts of the tree. It is very much a group activity, with roles largely determined by gender.
Given the heat of the Moroccan summer, it makes sense to enclose markets. This reduces the need for air-conditioning, which in any event would be financially and architecturally unfeasible. In these markets, different types of food are grouped together, much like aisles and shelves in supermarkets. The aromas and colors of scenes like this attract all visitors.
Covered markets in the Middle East are known as souks. They remain cool in summer, while the narrow aisles bring potential customers close to products.
Many items displayed on this shelf would go into hot dogs or sausages in the US, such as beef tongue or tripe.
Shoppers in Morocco, like many other places in the world, buy unpackaged spices rather than in containers.
Vegetable vender, indoor Moroccan market
This merchant has displayed his wares carefully to attract shoppers.
Located in the busy Place el-hedim at the heart of the city (the medina), the covered market offers mouth-watering candy and other sweets beautifully arrayed in precise towers. In much of the world, small shops that specialize in specific products cluster in the same part of the market. In other corners of the souk fresh produce and meat, as well as spices and dairy, are sold year-round. The markets are especially busy during the month of Ramadan when families break their daily fast in the evening with a specially cooked feast.
Dates, apricots and other delicacies on sale, Moroccan market
Since Morocco contains both dry and well-watered places, its markets feature both desert-style foods [dates] and fruits from orchards [apricots].
Locally-produced Moroccan pottery on sale
At 1350 feet above sea level, Fez is cool on this December day. All the pottery was produced in the Fez area. As is typical in the Muslim world, men dominate as shop owners.
The royal city of Fez draws many visitors who enjoy carriage rides through the city.
These varied items, many of them combining copper with other metals, are displayed in a tourist-oriented shop
This Moroccan craftsman is hammering elaborate designs in copper.
Elaborate tapestry and mosaics, Bahia Palace, Marrakesh
Islamic art and architecture generally feature geometric designs rather than people, scenery or animals. The mosaic tiles provide cool backrests
Moroccan women inside Bahia Palace, Marrakesh
Built in the late 19th century to display opulence, the name of this palace means 'brilliance.' The mosaic walls help keep the room cool in summer
Remains of the palace of Sultan Moulay Ismail [1634-1727] include numerous hinges, considered lovely in that country's style
"This complex was built as a horses' stables by Moulay Ismail, a powerful Moroccan sultan who transformed the city of Meknes from a provincial centre to a spectacular imperial capital during his reign in the late 17th century." (https://www.flickr.com/photos/simonpurdy/2594981204)
Remains of the palace of Sultan Moulay Ismail [1634-1727] include numerous elaborate keyhole doors, considered lovely in that country's style
With much of the country arid (the Sahara) and other parts mountainous (the three Atlas ranges), water in Morocco is very unequally distributed. Various sultans who lived in Meknes relied on canals and waterwheels to provide water
Sultan Moulay Ismail [1634-1727] built an elaborate palace, including stables that could hold 11,000 horses. Much of the structure was destroyed by earthquakes
Basketweaving looks simple, but it is actually an intricate art. Strands of straw are collected, dyed, and twisted together into sides of a basket. Then, other strands are crossed perpendicular, to preserve the integrity. It can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days to make a basket from scratch.
Morocco's traditional crafts are mainly functional, serving a purpose as well as being beautiful works of art. In an arid land, such art is more necessary than a painting on a wall.
At the side of the road, vendors in Morocco sell everything from gasoline to ancestral crafts. Here, a Moroccan family sells their wares. Hung from the bags on the line are rolled balls of semolina for couscous.
Olives and semolina flour are two of the main exports of Morocco. Outside of the main cities, settlements are rather scarce, and the mostly arid land is not friendly to farmers.
The oud is a popular Moroccan instrument; its timbre lies between that of a guitar and a sitar.
A tripartite Arabic sign near a beach in Rabat, Morocco instructs beachgoers not to play soccer, bring dogs, or cycle on the sand.
In the distance, the skyline of Rabat peers over the Atlantic Ocean. The sign on the left reads, "Our beaches make you smile" in Arabic and French.
In Rabat and other coastal regions of Morocco, fish, vegetables, rice and citrus are popular delicacies. The national dish, however, is couscous.
Muslims customarily pray 5 times per day, wherever they may find themselves: fajr (dawn), zuhr (noon), asr (in the afternoon), mahgrib (after sunset) and isha (at nightfall). A Moroccan man has unrolled his prayer mat, taken off his shoes, and prays at the sound of the azaan.
Sloping down to the seaside in Rabat is an old Islamic cemetery. Many of the gravestones contain attached gardens, which represent the garden of paradise in the Islamic tradition.
The Bab Oudaia gate to the Kasbah is a huge, ceremonial entranceway. It was built in 1195 by the Almohads. Today, the Kasbah is home to whitewashed homes of everyday Moroccans.
Built into this door in the Kasbah of Rabat are several curious artifacts: shearing scissors, huge plates, a small axe, and brass lamps. Today, the Kasbah is primarily a residential complex.
A small Moroccan girl looks toward the ground in the Kasbah of Rabat. Behind her is a curious door ornament: a large brass beatle door-knocker. The travel books advise weary travelers that the Kasbah is free to enter, and to ignore anyone who "claims it is forbidden."
Stark blue and white walls illuminate the interior of the kasbah. It was built during the reign of the Almohads in 1121. The doors of the Kasbah are famous for their decoration.
Kasbah overlooking the Bou Regreg, Rabat
The Bou Regreg in Morocco has faced issues that run concurrent with any modern city on a river, namely, pollution, dumping, and saltwater intrusion. The first to inhabit the vicinity were Phoenicians, followed quickly by Romans.
The Bou Regreg River irrigates northern Morocco. The mouth of the river and its point of contact with the Atlantic Ocean is located between the cities of Rabat and Sale.
The mosque at Hassan Tower functioned from 1200 to 1755, when it was destroyed by an earthquake. The mosque was built according to the designs of the Giralda in Seville, Spain, and the Koutoubia in Marrakesh. According to myth, the same designer actually traveled to Morocco to draw up the plans.
Hassan Tower in Rabat only reached 140 feet before its contruction was abandoned. The tower, as well as its barely-started columns, create an eerie monument to the dreams of 12th-century ruler Yacub al-Mansour.
The Hassan Tower is opposite the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. It was meant to be the minaret of a yet-incomplete mosque. The minaret and mosque were intended to be the largest in the world. Visitors and pilgrims can access the tower via a series of ramps, rather than stairs. The ramps would have allowed the muezzin to ride a horse to the minaret.
Tourists and visitors can view the above-ground tomb of Mohammad V and his sons, Hassan II and Prince Abdallah. Quran-readers are sometimes present, reading select surahs daily.
Guard outside the Mausoleum of Mohammed V
The granite and marble flooring of the Mausoleum of Mohammed V in Rabat is kept pristine by the weather and the eyes of this watchful guard.
Entrance gate to Mausoleum of Mohammed V
Guarded by soldiers at all times, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V in Rabat is a symbolic glimpse of the fusion between religion and state. Every subtle detail in the structure is viewed Islamically.
Moroccan soldiers on horseback patrol Mohammed V Avenue in the daylight.
Moroccan architecture includes distinctive arches, which often peer through to other arches, creating a mirroring effect with the negative space.
Storks have set up shop in the abandoned city of Chellah in Morocco. They have completely overrun the environs, including the 14th-century minaret built by Merenid sultan Abou al-Hassan Ali.
Locals have taken Morocco's tourism revival seriously, and have set up shop in the main tourist traps. Chellah is no exception.
Chellah contains the ruins of a triumphal arch, a temple to Jupiter, and the octagonal Pool of the Nymph. Roaming around the ruins can seem meaningless without a guidebook, but the half-walls and grassy vistas are part of the mystery. The necropolis begs the question: "What really was here? Does it matter anymore?"
Formerly the site of a Roman settlement, the Sala Colonia, the Chellah is a sprawling architectural site just south of Rabat. Overlooking the Bou Regreg River, the site is grassy and paradisal.
Accompanied by bendir (drums) and ney (flutes), Moroccan musicians perform for the tourist crowd in front of the Kashbah of the Udayas, awaiting tips from tourists.
The Kasbah of the Udayas is a kasbah, or high-ground fortress, is notable for its deep redbrick exterior and its starkly decorated interior: deep blue and bright white walls clash wondrously with the earthen walls.
Dar-al-Makhzen is the official residence of the King of Morocco. The compound contains spaces for the Moroccan Royal Guard, the College Royal, and a huge library.
The Moroccan Royal Guard, while technically in the army, is under the direct bidding of the King. Its history is long, dating back to 1088 and the creation of the Almoravid Black Guard of Muslim converts by Yusuf ibn Tashfin.
Tourists cannot approach the royal palace of Morocco, lest they be prodded away by watchful soldiers of the Royal Guard, who march in front of the palace 24 hours a day.
A woman walks outside the sprawling complex of the royal residence of Morocco. The palace complex, built in 1864 by Muhammad IV, replaces an older palace. Two Frenchmen designed the palace, and it has been the center of Moroccan public affairs since then.
Toledo, Spain lies next to the Tagus River. It was settled before the Romans began to expand and has been, at different times, a center of Muslim, Jewish and Christian cultures. Thus, it earned the moniker, "City of Three Cultures."
A chapterhouse is a room attached to a cathedral wherein larger meetings are held. The Chapterhouse in the Toledo Cathedral also happens to be a "meeting" of characters featured in the frescoes of Juan de Borgona.
The retable of the Cathedral of Toledo is perhaps the most ornate retable in the world. Taking seven years to complete, the retable was begun in 1497 and finished in 1504. It required the labor of 8 designers, carvers, and illuminators.
The Benedictine Abbey and memorial cross was erected by Francisco Franco to remember and honor those who died for his cause. Additionally, Franco is buried onsite.
The Valley of the Fallen is a Catholic basilica, near Madrid. The cross behind the Benedictine Abbey is the largest memorial cross in the world.
Altar of the Basilica of San Lorenzo de El Escorial
Cenotaph in golden bronze of the family of Philip II, between 1591 and 1599.
Here are the caskets of Philip II with his three wives and Prince Charles.
"The Royal Site of San Lorenzo de El Escorial (Spanish: Monasterio y Sitio de El Escorial en Madrid), commonly known as El Escorial (Spanish pronunciation: [el eskoˈɾi̯al]), is a historical residence of the King of Spain, in the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, about 45 kilometres (28 miles) northwest of the capital, Madrid, in Spain. It is one of the Spanish royal sites and functions as a monastery, basilica, royal palace, pantheon, library, museum, university and hospital. It is situated 2.06 km (1.28 mi) up the valley (4.1 km [2.5 mi] road distance) from the town of El Escorial." (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Escorial)
The tower of the Toledo Cathedral was built to resemble the papal crown.
In the Cathedral of Toledo, a skylight was built in over the main altar. This is called El Transperante. This skylight gives the impression that the entire altar is rising to heaven. The rejaria, or iron screens before the altar, were added during the Renaissance.
Southern Spain is notable for its artistry in painted tiles. Greatly influenced by Moorish design and architecture, the tradition of enameled tile continues in Spain to this day.
Professor Claude Welch points at the beautiful city of Toledo, Spain. The Alcazar and the Cathedral dominate the panorama. Toledo lies on the Tagus River in Southern Spain.
Chapel of St. Ildephonsus, Toledo Cathedral
Located in the north of the Cathedral complex, the Chapel of St. Ildephonsus is an octagonal room with Gothic stylings. It was built for the burial of Cardinal Gil Carrillo de Albornoz.
In the tympanum of the Portal of Forgiveness, Mary gives traditional Catholic robes to St. Ildephonsus. This theme is reprised throughout the Toledo Cathedral in stained glass, fresco, mosaic, and stained glass.
The main façade of the Toledo Cathedral presents three doors: on the left, the Puerta del Infierno (Portal of Hell). To the right, the Puerta del Juicio Final (Portal of the Last Judgment). In the center, the Puerta del Perdon (Portal of Forgiveness. In the 1400s, it was said that penitents who entered through the Portal of Forgiveness were granted indulgences. Today, this entrance is reserved for special occasions, only.
The Toledo Cathedral is considered by experts to be the exemplar and magnum opus of the gothic style in Spain. Built on the site of a former mosque, the Toledo Cathedral interior was designed in a Mujedar style, with off-white walls and a checkered floor. The retable is the most complex structure; every surface is gilded and the figures of Jesus and Mary pop from the panels.
In the 1500s, the Spanish monarchy discontinued use of the Alcazar as a residential castle. Subsequent monarchs used the space as a prison and military college. Today, it is open to tourists and researchers as a museum and archive of Spain's military history.
Historians believe that Cordoba, Spain, was one of the best water-supplied cities in Spain in antiquity. The largest aqueduct, the Aqua Augusta, carried 35,000 cubic meters of water per day.
Tourists can climb the lofty bell tower for views of the Mezquita complex and the great city of Cordoba. This bell tower was originally Abd al-Rahman III's commissioned minaret, which held two staircases - one for the ascent, and the other for the descent. The minaret held fourteen windows for a panoramic view. Tourists, rather than muezzins, enjoy this view today.
The Alcazar of Segovia is the site where Queen Isabel and King Ferdinand met for the first time. Its foundation originates in a Roman/Almoravid fort, but was built up into the current structure after the return of the Christians in 1170 A.D. Most of the embellishments were added before the Renaissance.
The minaret of the Mezquita was converted into a bell tower during the Reconquista in 1236. In the 1300s, King Henry II ordered that the bells taken from the Santago de Compstela Cathedral (an important pilgrimage site in Northeastern Spain) be installed in the newly added bell tower.
A microscopic view of a wall in the Mezquita, or Mosque, of Cordoba reveals the 8-pointed star, gilded and painted in deep shades of red, blue and green. The tessellations of the 8-pointed star motif are common in Islamic art. Art historians have argued that such patterns can suggest the underlying reality of infinity.
Puerta de San Ildefonso, Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba
The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba has 8 doors on its western wall, and its construction was partly inspired by masjids in Israel/Palestine and Syria. The red and white painting on the arches on the doors and in the prayer hall is inspired by the Al-Aqsa mosque in Jerusalem.
The southernmost provice of Spain, Andalusia, gets its name from the Arabic "Al-Andalus," meaning "Land of the Vandals." The terrain is rather mountainous, with several streams and booming industries in grape and olive farming.